RRC Commuting

Bike route maps

2008-08-01T10:18:00.002+10:00

Great web reference here, if you are planning a route.

http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/Home/BicyclesPedestrians/WhereToRide/DownloadableBicycleMapsVic.htm

And, of course, there's always http://www.bikely.com

How to Not Get Hit by Cars

2008-06-05T10:48:00.002+10:00

Important lessons on bicycle safety when commuting - by Michael Bluejay from Cell Bikes.

http://www.cellbikes.com.au/newsletter.php?id=147

A few websites full of commuting tips

2008-05-27T12:46:00.001+10:00

http://www.runmuki.com/commute/index.html

http://commutebybike.com/cats/commuting-101/

Parking at RMIT

2008-04-10T09:54:00.004+10:00

Being in the city, there are many places around where you can hitch your bike. There is, however, a purpose-built bike cage.

RMIT have a secure bike cage in Building 51, on the corner of Victoria and Cardigan Streets that can hold 142 Bikes and is for both staff and student use. The following text was in a recent staff newsletter.

"Users who already have access cards to enter computer labs, for example, can have their cards programmed to operate the bike enclosure lock by contacting the Hub and completing the necessary form. Students can, for a small fee, obtain a card just to use the cage if they do not currently have one by contacting the Hub also."

Otherwise, I'd refer you to Sheldon Brown's lock strategy page. And, an ugly bike means less likelihood of theft.

Tip - Simple maintenance

2008-03-04T09:15:00.003+11:00

Brakes not coming on early enough? Gears going juggada-juggada-juggada?

You'll see that there's some little 'barrels' for the brakes, and the shifters. It can be turned by your finger and has a thread. Wind it out, and you adjust the length of the cable tube, effectively shortening the cable. Most likely, the brake ones will be just where the brake cables meet the levers. Wind these out until you have the tension you prefer. (You want the brake to start doing something at about half pull... but that you can't pull it anywhere near all the way..., any earlier than half and you won't get the leverage - if that makes sense).

The gears - there's some variation. But (generally), the one on the left shifter, for your chain rings, is like the brakes, where the cable joins the shifter. Just wind it out so that out so that you can shift OK and don't get any juggada juggada juggada. You may have to wind in/out a little til you get it right. If you can't quite get it right, then make sure it's OK for your top two chain rings (you shouldn't have to use your 3rd (small) one, that's if you actually HAVE a third one).

The right hand shifter, which controls the rear gears. That could be on the shifter, but most likely it's where the cable joins the derailleur at the back. Again... just adjust it a little (out) and see if it makes a difference. Even if you aren't using your full complement of gears for a while, you want to adjust it so that it doesn't click as your ride juggada juggada juggada.

Oh, and when you take it back, just explain that's what you did, so they know to put those barrels back to their rightful position. (Which is normally about one wind out, to allow you to wind in if required, but mainly wind out for cable stretch or, in the case of the brakes, brake pad wear).

(Yes.. I think 'juggada' is a real word!)

Cost of commuting?

2008-02-28T12:56:00.003+11:00

http://yehudamoon.com/images/strips/2008-02-04.gif

Riding in traffic

2008-02-27T13:08:00.001+11:00

This is really good, but American, so the whole "wrong side of the road" bit messes with your head somewhat.

http://bikexprt.com/streetsmarts/usa/index.htm

Bike Ban on Trains removed!

2008-02-18T18:28:00.003+11:00

Yep - that's correct. And even better, Minister Kosky has announced quite a few extras. From an email from Bicycle Victoria...

Late yesterday (14 February) the Minister for Transport called a Friday press conference to hand down her decision on public transport and bikes. Today she announced the following initiatives:

1 Bikes can be taken for free on all rail services, Connex and VLine, at any time including peak periods.

2 The bike-carrying sections of the train will be signed and a code of conduct issued

3 The VLine timetable will show which trains have the most space for bikes. (The green and purple Velocity trains do not have a luggage area that easily accommodates bikes.)

4 Connex will trial some internal fit-outs to facilitate the carriage of bikes and other luggage.

5 Folding bikes will be permitted on trams and buses from April. Guidelines for this will be issued.

6 $1m will be spent on bike storage cages at 20 stations across the metropolitan and regional system.

7 Station upgrades will automatically include a bike cage.

8 The private bike locker system will be audited and reviewed.

Don't pay full price

2008-02-11T09:57:00.000+11:00

Cycling can cost you a wad - but it doesn't have to. Here's a few tips to get good gear at bargain prices.

Don't buy the latest - Most companies release new product every year, with claims that it is the greatest ever. In reality, not much has changed in bikes over the years. The latest big change was probably indexed gears, and that was 20 years ago! Things do get lighter in time, and may work slightly more conveniently, but there's no need for the average person to change their gear until it breaks or it is otherwise holding them back. Buy last-year's model if they still have it in stock, (and you can get it cheaper, of course - sometimes the newer model is a better specification than the previous - so you're getting better things on it for less). I love my bike - what do I care it wasn't the latest model?

Subscribe to mailing lists/clubs - Many bike shops have mailing, or more frequently these days, e-mailing lists that will give you exclusive discounts. Two I receive are from Torpedo7 and Goldcross. Even many local bike shops will do this, to provide better service to their preferred customers.

Watch out for sales - Yeah... bike shops have sales, but stores like K-Mart, Target and Rebel Sport may have cycle gear, or other products that could serve as cycling gear, on sale. Kathmandu is a personal favourite. They have their Winter Sale starting this Friday (or Thursday if you are a member of their 'Summit' Club - yeah... I've subscribed to that one too!). They have their cycle gloves, computers and some bike lights at 50% off. They also have many first-layer options (merino 40% off, acrylic wicking fabrics 50%off, and some 3 for 1), 50% off some fleece vests/jackets and waterproof jackets on sale. I own a lot of Kathmandu gear, but I've never paid full price for it. Why would you? I'm gonna get a 50%off merino beanie, and a rear bike light.

Try online - Torpedo7, Phantom Cycles, Melbourne Bike Centre and even eBay are great places for cheap gear. I got my new saddle on eBay for 40% off what I would've paid for it in a shop. There's heaps more online shops, both in Australia and overseas (and o/s isn't a bad option with the strong Aussie dollar!)

Cheap - Cheap cost doesn't necessarily mean cheap quality. Check out Uno.

So, save money. Buy something! ;)

Cory

(Oh... and I don't get anything from any of these companies for recommending them - however either me and/or other RMIT Riders have shopped from them. Just wanna save you some $.)

A healthy bike means a healthy you

2008-02-11T09:56:00.000+11:00

Yep - most of us are into cycling for many reasons, and chief among them is getting/keeping fitter. But, if your bike isn't healthy then it isn't going to be good for your mental fitness (if it breaks down on you), nor your physical fitness (if it stays broken you can't get out on it, and a poor bike-fit may actually injure you over time!) Think of your car - you do some regular things for that too. (Oh... and just like your car, it's a good idea to get your bike serviced every once in a while. And a word of warning, the month leading up to ATBiaD is prime season for bike servicing - book in early!)

So....Here are some tips, partially sourced from this month's Ride On, the free magazine that comes with a Bicycle Victoria membership. (Hey, did you know you get free insurance with them too!? Pretty good deal!)

1. Tyre Pressure - It's a fact. Most bike tyres are underinflated. If you ride a road bike, you need to pump them up at least once per week - and for many of us, that means the morning of (or the night before) a ride. Look at the sidewall of your tyre for the minimum pressure. If you have very expensive tyres, you might be surprised to note that the minimum pressure is actually quite high. For ATBiaD, my personal opinion is that anything above around 95psi is a bit excessive. We aren't Lance Armstrong so you just increase your risk of getting a blowout, as well as decrease the comfort of your ride as you feel each and every bump.

Oh... and don't rely on the accuracy of the petrol station air - get yourself a gauge and/or a floor-pump that has one built in.

2. Tyre Rubber - Every few weeks, give your tyres a once-over. Look for any nicks, or embedded stones/glass etc. If you pull them out now, you may actually cause a hole - but better at home than out there on the road - and if it is embedded in your tyre it's only a matter of time before it will work its way through to your tube. Check your sidewalls too - if your bike is stored outside, they can deteriorate quite quickly and you wouldn't want a blowout.

3. Chain lubricating - If you don't already have any, splurge out and for $5-15 you can get some great chain lube. Most of the good ones out there are wax-based (not oil based) so they are less-likely to pick up dirt, and also last longer. However, they will all wear off - particularly in wet weather. And you don't want your chain's squeaking to be the thing to let you know you need some lube. You don't need to add much, as it will work its way around the chain. And you'll feel it on your ride too - all nice and slippy!

Depending upon how often you ride, every month or so, you should give your chain a thorough clean. Grab your Sunday Age (after you've read it, of course) and stick it under your bike, then go nuts with the citrus cleaner. Chain, jockey wheels and your chain rings and rear cassette (all the cogs the chain runs on). Then dry it all with a rag (hold a rag loosely around the chain and spin the pedal backwards with your hand). Then clean it again with the hottest water possible (that's where citrus-based cleaner is good, as it is water-soluble).

4. Clean and polish - If you have been riding in the rain, you'll be amazed the amount of crud that gets flicked up on your bike. Give the frame and rims a gentle clean (don't get any cleaner on the part of your rim where the brake pads hit - you still want your brakes to work!)

If you're really keen, you might want to put a drop or two of your chain lube into your cables, so they slip easily too.

Cory.

Think BIG!

2008-02-11T09:43:00.000+11:00

Quite an interesting article. I certainly don't agree with all of it, but there's some good points in here (especially for those who commute via bicycle.

Generally, you should ride towards the left-hand side of the road, however there are times when you should ride in a position where a car/truck driver is more-likely to see you - you should ride 'big'.

The Theory of BIG

or

How to claim your space on the road

From our earliest days we have been indoctrinated by this nations pathological love affair with the motor car. As a hangover of the class system of antiquity, we, the unfortunate possessors of a healthy mind and body, are bombarded daily with the mistaken view that roads are for cars. Driven, sometimes literally, off the roads by our fellow citizens in steel boxes, we begin to realise that never before in history have so many been subject to so much machinery. It's not just using the cars that is a problem. Without the resources to house their cherished possesions properly, our social betters see fit to leave the stabling of their salary sucker to be a stumbling block for the rest of us, whether it be on the pavement or on the queens highway.

So from where does the problem come? Deep within the subconcious of every british citizen is the acceptance of the motor vehicles priority on the roads, fortunately with no basis in law. 'Roads were made for cars' is a common refrain that exemplifies the convoluted thinking carbon monoxide an benzene can induce. There is the self belief that any person who dares to shrug off their carapace and emerge naked to their environment on the road is some bicycling Baldrick or a forelock tugging yer 'umble servant. Such types as are fit only to be driven off the road at the whim of Mr Toad as he goes past on his more important journey. 'Poop poop!' and a clod of exhaust are all that remain as he thunders off into the distance whilst you pull yourself out of the hedge. Never mind that roads were created for people to use for transport (not for people to use as car parks).

How does one claim ones space on the road without the support of a herd of highland cattle? This is where the theory of BIG comes in. Life on the roads is a power struggle. Not of physical ability, but of psychology with roots in the antiquity of animal behaviour. The late twentieth century Homo sapiens (the nomenclature comittee is revising the species calssification), unlike the rest of the animal kingdom, has been stripped of its evolutionary heritage. There are no natural displays of preening or prowess that are socially acceptable so we have subverted transport to be our display of BIG. If we have a display that is more BIG than the other guy then we win. He backs off. We get the girl (at least that is what the advertisement said). This isn't quite true. One can display a generally fit, healthy body in best evolutionary manner, but not when sat inside a car.

Beer drinking, pay packet, driving prowess, prettyness of girlfriend. All these are lads new evolutionary power struggles. And the most insidious of these is transport. Ever heard a group of reps talking? 'I was doing 100 in the outside lane when a repmobile GT pulls up behind me and wants to overtake. No way, cos I've got a repmobile GTX and theres no way I'd let a mere GT go past me'. Loss of BIG you see. All psychological. Willing to be a stupid git to out psyche someone he's never met and probably will never see again. All to boost his self BIG. But how does this work out when you are on a bike and I am in a car. Surely you lose by default?

Not at all. BIG in transport terms is partly about what you drive and partly about how good a driver you are.And the drivers have already lost to the cyclists. Every time you pass a car in a traffic jam his BIG shrinks. You have just told him by your presence that despite all his prowess at driving and super smart car, you are still getting from A to B faster than him. Ouch, that hurts. And appearance counts too. A scratch on your shiny new years model Fraud Mundano GLTXi turbo is like turning up to a formal dinner in shorts and baggy-T. Unthinkable. It says 'even though I have a great car I am a crap driver'. And cyclists do a lot of damage when you hit them. They have lots of sharp sticky out bits that can remove wing mirrors or scratch body work. Definitely to be avoided.

He will remember this. So remind him. Say 'I've got more BIG than you' as you take your rightful place on the road and let him be subservient to you. You get the girl. He gets a heart attack. After all, you can wear lycra and get away with it and he has to suffer with a shirt on a coathanger. But driving prowess is what leads the macho rep to only leave 6 inches from wing mirror to cyclist as he brushes past. So good he can hold a line that close, preferably the faster the better. Obviously, he has to allow you the space that you use on the road, as hitting you means he loses face. And how much space you for something on the road depends on how BIG it is.

BIG isn't about how large you are but about how large you seem. The rules of BIG are very simple. Be visible. Be noticed. Be in the way. Be expensive. The more BIG you have, the more space needs to be left. Ever seen a car brush past a moving, wobbly, deferential Baldrick-on-a-bike with a scant hands breadth to spare, only to leave room for a double decker bus to pass between it and the skip further down the road? BIGger things need a BIGger distance when you pass it.

Be visible.
If they don't see you they won't remember to bow down and worship the ground you pedal over. So be seen. BIG things to wear are solid bright colours. Prefereably big and baggy so they flap a bit. Gives a bit more uncertainty where the edge is. Broken patterns and suchlike are not BIG. they merge with the transport background and break up your outline to a lot of SMALL rather than one BIG.
Wide tyres, wide panniers, anything to make the bike BIG.And don't forget to signal. Makes drivers take a bit more notice. BIG signals with BIG eye contact. 'I am turning right, just see if I don't'.

Be noticed.
Just another bicyclist? Not me mate. I'm different. You'll notice me. A trailer on the back. It has it's own BIG from it's size, but it hits what passes for the drivers brain more because they are not used to it. Different is BIG. A recumbent or a tandem is BIG. Heck, even riding along with a silly hat on or a dinosaur with wings is pretty BIG. A child seat and 'Baby on Board' sticker is also good.
Another trick is to wobble slightly. If you look unsafe on a bike (it takes a lot of practice to get a really good wobble going) then they will notice you more, increasing your BIG. And movement across the field of vision is BIGger than movement towards or away.

Be in the way.
OK, how much room do you need to ride a bike on the road? The least I have ever used was about four inches from kerb to wheel whilst being brush-passed by a juggernaught at 40+mph. Big laundry bill that day. But how much do you really need to be a law abiding cyclist? Try this. Ride along at your normal distance from the edge of the road. Now open up your Highway code and do a proper left turn signal. Thats right, arm straight out. If you are really BIG then you won't have slapped the pedestrian waiting to cross at the lights around the face by accident, or wrapped your elbow around the belisha beacon. There you go. A minimum is so you can perform legal signals and still be totally on the road.
OK, so you are now a bit further out, maybe further than you are used to. And now you discover something. BIG things stick out further into the road than little things. And BIG things need more room. And strangely enough, the more room you take up, the more space cars leave for you! Broadly speaking, cars will leave you as much room as you leave yourself so keep out from the edge of the road about the same distance you want cars to keep out from you.
This is only a guideline. Sometimes you will have left just enough room for the driver to sneak through without having to alter course and you still get brush-passed. Not what you want. So move out a bit more. Enough so he has to conciously move around you. If you have to be steered around then you are really BIG and need to be left more space. About level with the front nearside wing, just inside the wheel track that has been nicely swept clean of broken indicator and windscreen glass and other motor effluent that the master race deem the peasant classes worthy of riding over.
Now put the boot on the other foot. Imagine you are the victim of a cruel conspiracy and are forced to transport yourself inside a glass and metal cage everywhere. You come to a road junction where you have to give way. Where are you looking? At the cars of course. So, thankfully reverting to uncaged mode, where do you want to be to be seen? Where people are looking!. Yup, and they are looking at the line of cars so you want to be tucked right up against the pavement ... not! Get into the line of sight and you will be seen. Stay out of it and you won't be. People see BIG things. BIG things are what people see. BIG is in the line of sight.
Now of course one doesn't need to get in the way if the road is plenty wide enough to share, but only when it is uncomfortably narrow for Mr Toad to steer his fume conditioned three-piece-suite-in-a-tin alongside you without giving you the space you need.
Cowering in the dirt and potholes of the gutter, your body language screaming 'I am not worthy, O great infernally combustioned one. Chastise me for presuming to use this road and taking a mere second of your time for that urgent trip down the corner shop for a packet of fags and the sunday paper. It is my just reward if I am left bleeding and injured amongst the remains of my bicycle as you continue your blissful journey onwards.' is not a particularly BIG attitude, but it is what our autocracy would have you believe. Let me tell you a secret.They are not telling the truth.

Be expensive.
Running over a child is still frowned upon in this society. Having to admit you ran a child on a bike off the road is a bad thing for your BIG. What an excuse for having children? No, but a child seat is a useful accessory for carrying the shopping and if you have a nice high-backed one the cars can't see there is no child in it until they are past.
On the other hand, wearing a police uniform (when allowed to of course) is about as BIG as you can get. Wait a few months till the bike police are out in force and then go get your black and white helmet with POLITE written on it and your bright yellow jacket with reflective stripes...
Have you ever wondered why so many people ride motorbikes whilst wearing 'Hells Angels' type denim jackets or leathers? Well, imagine what would happen if you carved one of these salubrious characters up in your car.. not a pretty sight? So you leave them plenty of space. The consequences of hitting them are quite BIG.

The scale of BIG
Cyclist type BIG (0-10)
Uniformed policeman on a bike 10
Tricycle, Bike with trailer 8
Well lit, visible touring cyclist at the right distance from the kerb 6
Well lit, visible touring cyclist at the kerb 3
Unlit cyclist at night (no cycle friendly law) 1
Unlit cyclist in long black coat creeping along the pavement in a university town 0

BIG calculator
Add up the relevant sections below and see what your own BIG is:
Bicycle type
Road Racing bike 0
Mountain bike 1
Bike with panniers fitted 2
Recumbent bike/Tandem 3
More than two wheels (Tricycles, trailers etc) 4
Any bike with no rear lights at night 1
Any bike, no rear lights or reflectors 0
Bonus for any number >1 of bright (>=10W) lights at night (to a maximum of 4) 1

Clothing
No reflectives at night time 0
Dark 'natural' clothing 0
Bright jazzy patterned clothing 1
Bright solid colours/Good reflectives at night 2
Stark naked 2

Position
Taking a narrow lane 4
Creeping along the kerb 0
Just outside the car wheel tracks (medium road) 1
Just inside the car wheel tracks (medium road) 3
On a shared use path 0 (I'd give you minus if I could)
Add it all up and get a score out of ten.

Your rating:
0-2 Imminent Road Kill
3-5 Bicycling Baldrick
6-8 Effective Cyclist
9-10 Road Warrior

Where do I rate? Somewhere between 8 and 10 depending on circumstances (I just got some super bright headlamps and it depends whether I take the trailer or not).

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Theory of BIG copyright (c) David Martin 1998.

Welcome

2008-02-04T09:55:00.000+11:00

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